2 weeks in Northern Thailand

A Travel Guide to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai

Out of all the places we visited during our two-month trip to Thailand last summer, Chiang Mai was my favorite. Known as the blissful and laid-back capital of Northern Thailand, Chiang Mai was the perfect destination to explore and wind down for three weeks, with its stunning temples, charming experiences, and of course, unforgettable meals. Here's a travel guide, featuring some of our favorite stays, day trips and food. This post contains affiliate links.
White temple Blue Temple inside

When to visit Chiang Mai

Similar to Phuket, the best time to visit Chiang Mai is from November to February, as the weather is sunny, cool and pleasant. From March to May, the weather becomes hot, and June to October is the rainy season. We didn't do research beforehand and traveled to Chiang Mai in July, so we were met with a few unpredictable hot and rainy days. Since it was off-season, prices for flights and hotels were lower and there were less crowds than usual. As we were in Chiang Mai for three weeks, we weren't out every day and the weather wasn't an issue. However, if you're only visiting for a few days and want to make sure you have the best weather possible for outdoor activities, then visiting during peak season may be your best option.

How to get around Chiang Mai

We spent one week living in Chiang Mai's old city and mostly walked around, as we were in a central area. The following two weeks, we stayed about a 20-minute drive away from the city and used Grab for the rest of the trip. You can also get around by motorbike, which you can rent with an international driver's license.

Where to stay in Chiang Mai

Chai Lai Jan villa Jan pool

Chai Lai Orchid:

Imagine getting woken up by a gentle 70-year-old grandma elephant in the remote jungles of Northern Thailand. Chai Lai Orchid is an elephant sanctuary that cares for rescued Asian elephants from abusive practices, with all proceeds donated to Daughters Rising Thailand to empower local at-risk girls and end trafficking. We stayed in the A frame bungalow by the riverside for two nights, and loved every minute of it, from feeding the elephants breakfast in the morning to taking the elephants out for a walk and bath. This was such an amazing experience and something that I've had on my bucket list since I was child, so it was a dream to be able to do this.

Note that the sanctuary is about an hour drive from Chiang Mai. The staff offered to schedule a driver for us in advance, which I recommend, given that it's a very rural area that can be hard to find. It's also a bumpy ride for those who get carsick easily, so it's worth staying for more than one night. I found two nights to be a perfect amount of time to spend here. If you're coming to Thailand, chances are that seeing elephants will be on your bucket list too. When you're looking for places to see these amazing creatures up close, make sure to do research to check that the organization is run by an ethical organization.

Mango Home:

We spent our first week in Chiang Mai at this Airbnb. Located in the heart of Chiang Mai's old city, this was a great, central spot to start our Chiang Mai adventure, as we could conveniently walk around to the many restaurants, shops and temples in the old city. The property itself was spacious and serene, with a tree in the middle of the apartment and a beautiful bathroom with a bathtub to relax after a long day.

Jan's Villa:

This is hands-down the best Airbnb I've ever stayed at. We were here for two weeks and were absolutely blown away by the entire experience, from the beautiful property and private infinity pool to the daily breakfasts delivered to our door, including fresh mangoes and bananas from the garden. In fact, we were so amazed by this Airbnb, we had coffee with Jan, our host, to hear about his life story and how he came to develop this incredible property. Jan truly went above and beyond to make our stay unforgettable and this stay has forever raised my standard for Airbnbs. One note is that the villa is located 20 minutes away from Chiang Mai's old city, so it's not as centrally located as Mango Home. We broke up the trip by staying at Mango Home to hit our bucket list spots and staying at Jan's Villa to spend the days unwinding by the pool.

Day trips to take from Chiang Mai

Blue Temple outside Doi Inthanon Karen tribe

Temples of Chiang Rai:

I remember seeing pictures of Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple, and having it on my bucket list since. We took this small-group day tour to see it in-person. The tour picked us up from Chiang Mai in the morning and drove us three hours to Chiang Rai, bringing us to the Black House, Wat Rong Suea Ten, known as the Blue Temple, and the White Temple. It's a full-day affair and I'm glad we were able to do it with this tour to learn more about the temples and the history from a local perspective.

Seeing the White Temple was one of those moments that felt surreal to finally experience in-person. The temple is unique in that it mixes traditional Buddhist beliefs with modern art. Crossing the bridge symbolizes the way to happiness by overcoming worldly temptations, greed and desire. Meanwhile, the Blue Temple is recognizable for its brilliant shade of rich sapphire and mesmerizing for its kaleidoscope of colors. At the center, a seated Buddha statue made of white porcelain is tinted blue with the reflection of the room and the patterns of the ceiling are almost psychedelic. Similar to other temples in Thailand, there is a dress code for both temples, so make sure you are covering your shoulders and knees.

Doi Inthanon National Park:

Another day trip that's worth the trek is Doi Inthanon National Park. We took this tour and enjoyed all of the stunning views at the locations that we stopped at throughout the day. The highlight for me was visiting Ban Mae Klang Luang to learn more about the Karen tribe living in the village and their way of life. We were also able to try freshly ground, locally grown coffee - an important source of income for the tribes.

What to eat in Chiang Mai

Earthen Jar Lerd Rote Coconut Shell Thai Food

Guay Tiew Pet Tun Saraphi:

Located about 20 minutes from central Chiang Mai is a restaurant that has mastered braised duck. We came here a few times during our stay and my favorite dish was the braised duck noodle soup. The duck meat is tender, with crispy skin and an herbal flavor that makes it stand out.

Earthen Jar Roast Pork:

This is the kind of meal you don't stop dreaming about. Located on the side of the road are a row of large ceramic jars that hold the crispiest roast pork belly you'll ever try. They're cooked in the jars over an open fire and the entire roasting process takes hours, resulting in tender pork with ultra crispy skin. The pork belly is perfectly paired with hot, fresh sticky rice and fresh herbs. If you're a fan of roast pork belly, you can't miss this place.

Lerd Rote Tai Rom Ma-Feuang:

If you're looking for the best seafood experience in Chiang Mai, look no further than Lerd Rote. We ordered the salt and pepper shrimp and the black pepper crab. In short, we were not prepared for this meal. The freshness of the seafood combined with the expert cooking and flavors of black pepper, garlic and onion left us speechless. When we think about the best meals we've had in our lives, this is on the top of the list.

Khao Soi Lung Prakit Kaat Gorm:

You can't visit Chiang Mai without having a bowl of khao soi, a local specialty consisting of egg noodles in a coconut curry broth. There are many restaurants in the city that serve the dish and you can't go wrong with most of them. We were on the hunt for the best one and after trying a few contenders, we agreed that this one was the winner for its chewy noodles, rich, flavorful broth and tender braised beef.

Coconut Shell Thai Food:

I had many mango sticky rice many times in Thailand, but this might have been the perfect one - sweet, ripe mango paired with sticky rice, which was blue in color from butterfly pea flower extract, and topped with coconut milk and toasted mung beans for an extra crunch. They serve other classics, including pad thai and pad see ew, but we stopped by more than once just for dessert.

When people think of Thailand, they usually think of Phuket or Bangkok, but if you have the time, don't miss out on the beautiful and laidback gems of Chiang Mai. For more everyday videos and clips from our trip to Northern Thailand, check out my Instagram Story Highlights.
Bonnie Zeng Collage
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